Sunday 18 September 2011

My culinary heritage

I have always suspected that I’d be really good at cooking if I ever bothered to try.  I feel the same about the flute.   

My Granny is a good cook.  In spite of this, or perhaps because of it, my mother is somewhat less adept in the culinary arts.  She has a repertoire of nine dishes that feature mince, and a roast chicken. Any experiments away from these often result in disaster, but what can you expect from a woman whose ideal supper is a bottle of red and a Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie? Has anyone ever tried one of these? I doubt it. She introduced me to them as soon as I was old enough for it not to be her fault as a negligent parent if I got a spongy brain or a necrotizing bug from the delightful offal and connective tissue combo.  Admittedly they are delicious (if a little challenging to get down once you realise what you’re eating) but they are so obviously, dangerously disgusting as a concept that they were promptly given the nickname ‘Bad Pies’. She bought me one when I moved into my flat, as a housewarming present. The Bad Pie sits in one of my cupboards in its tin (yes, tin. Pastry in a tin, sell by date 2018) daring me to eat it.

Anyway, Mum’s triumphs, such as they are, often involve rice. Chilli and rice, meatballs and rice, leftover chicken and rice… you get the idea. She really can cook rice. I don’t say this lightly because many people can’t. I’d always admired the perfect fluffiness and how she managers to get so much flavour into it. It was only a few months ago that I caught her adding a stock cube to a packet of Uncle Ben’s. Several dreams died that day.

So yes, home was never really a place of culinary adventure or experimentation, unless you count that time that my sister blended a carton of double cream with a chocolate bar and some vodka and declared that it tasted ‘just like baileys’.  Or the occasion when Mum made the now infamous ‘hockey puck pork’…“Oh. Oh. Mine’s a bit dry. Is anyone else’s?” Cue her children staring at her in bewilderment as they tried to extricate the twisted lumps of metal that had once been knives and forks from the rock hard chops.

It doesn’t help that a number of my sisters are naturally extremely conservative in their attitudes to food. You should have heard the response when it was posited that we had dauphinoise instead of roast potatoes at our Easter lunch this year. ‘You caaaaan’t have a roast lunch without roast potatoes, you just can’t, it’s wrong, we won’t have enough to eeeeeeeat. How can you possibly suggest this you BITCH, you just want to take over Eeeeeasterrr’. So the mothership and I gave in and served both kinds. Cue my Granny turning up and demanding to know why there were two types of potato on the table and did we all want to get fat.

Seriously, between my sisters the problems range from tomatoes (which are fine cooked in a sauce but raw makes one of them cry), to mushrooms, to fish (all – there’s a blanket ban), to anything that looks like it came from an animal, to most vegetables (the 16 year old still has to be made to count out individual peas on her plate), and so on and so forth.

Obviously I have my own weirdness too. My worst worst worst thing is milk. The thought of it is enough to make me shudder. Did you know we are the only animals who drink the baby food from ANOTHER SPECIES when we’re adults? Disclaimer: I haven't checked that fact. My Dad was (probably still is, but we’re too big to be sent to the naughty step now) one of those parents who believed in the ‘glass of milk a day for children’ thing. I used to sit, Paddington Bear hard stare fixed on my face, in front of these endless glasses of milk for what seemed like hours whilst my sisters (the freaks) necked pints of semi-skimmed disgustingness and ran off, laughing, into the sunset. Or playroom. I genuinely don’t believe I’ve drunk a glass of milk, eaten a milk based dish *rice pudding heave* or even had milk in the fridge of my own volition in my adult life. If you’re round at mine, the coffee is black. And decaffeinated, but that’s a whole other story.

Dukkah

Occasionally, when doing one of my new obsessive Sunday afternoon tidy ups, I come across scraps of paper on which I have jotted something which was going to become a life changing social commentary or possibly even a blog post. These were tucked into the back of the plastic folder which my MA certificate came in (thanks for framing that, parents):

23 March
Day uneventful, just tidying up loose ends prior to the long weekend. Went out for a lovely meal with the ex-housemates at 11 Park Walk. Decided to have spaghetti with bottarga as I always see Giles Coren writing about it and have never tried it. Delicious – more granular than I had expected (was maybe thinking of caviar due to the fact it’s roe too?) but tasted exactly of the sea. As I bent to pick up my handbag, I was nearly blinded by a halogen bulb that had been implanted into the floor. Why? God knows. I ended up putting my bag on top of it and burning the leather. That aside, amazing food and lovely to see the girls.

24 March
Woke up late, packed in 10 mins, ran (taxi) to Kings Cross, ran on to the train and my MA graduation weekend had officially begun. C and I met as planned at the station (Emotional Train Station Reunions being ‘our thing’ ever since she moved to the Continent). Particularly emotional this time; an awkward wave and a back pat. We wandered around for some time, drinking Pimms. Later on we met J and Y for dinner. Nice food. Tried something new called dukkah. Appears to be seeds.

And there you have it, a little snapshot of my life back in March. Presumably I didn’t continue this charming vignette because the next four days of entries would have been ‘Drunk. Hateful people everywhere. Unhappy’.  It wasn’t a classic weekend.

Of course, the food related purpose to all of this is dukkah (or dukka/duqqa). It’s an Egyptian side dish or dip that is a mixture of herbs, nuts and spices. Everyone is going to think I only found out about it because  someone made dukkah bread on the Great British Bake Off the other week, but I PROMISE I knew about it in March. I seem to remember the one I had being used effectively as a kind of crunchy topping for a cheese platter.

Basically, get a whole load of nuts and spices of your choice, in whatever proportion you think will be nice (choose things that go together, obviously – hazelnuts, sesame seeds, cumin, peppercorns, coriander and fennel seeds, salt…) toast all the components, crush them up, and dip bread and olive oil into the resulting crunchy mess. Looks impressive, as mentioned earlier, on the side of a cheese board (and you get the pleasure of saying ‘oh, that? it’s just dukkah darling. Have you never heard of it?’) but make sure the cheeses you’ve chosen can stand up to the strong flavours.

Birdfood?

Wednesday 14 September 2011

Seafood, eat

So, I invited friends for Sunday lunch and then had a total panic about it which involved only getting 2 hours sleep on Saturday night. I was forced to abandon the fantastic idea of a big convivial paella after realising (at 2am) that I didn’t have a pan big enough to make it in, but I had a bag of mixed seafood to use up urgently and was determined to think of something similar. Rick Stein’s Spain came up trumps (at 5am) with several soupy rice and fish recipes which I adapted until I ended up with the below (at 1pm).  It is definitely Spanish-y but is also a bit like a bouillabaisse in that it doesn’t have any rice in it and it’s the colour of rust.

Everyone seemed to enjoy it. I served it with big croutons, aioli (mayonnaise, lemon, salt, lots and lots of garlic, a bit of turmeric to make it yellow…) and a token salad.

There are no pictures because I forgot before lunch and then after lunch I was drunk.

Seafood Stew (serves 4-6)

You will need.
-Butter/oil
-2 onions
-1 carrot
-1 stick of celery
- 2 cans of chopped tomatoes
- 2tbsp of tomoto puree
-White wine
-2 anchovies
-750ml fish or chicken stock (see below for difference)
-150ml double cream
-6 coley fillets (SUSTAINABLE FISHING)
-approx 400g of mixed seafood of your choice. I went with a handy 400g bag of frozen mixed seafood from Waitrose (funny that) which was prawns, squid and mussels.
-Big handful of chopped parsley
-2 lemons
-Pinch Cayenne/smoked paprika/pimento (I know they’re different, but basically whatever you can get your hands on that gives it a bit of a kick).
-Salt and pepper

Method.
-Put the onions, carrot and celery (the mirepoix, if you’re being a dick) in a big pot with butter and oil (good things happen to burning temperatures when you use both), season and sweat them down until soft. Should be about 10 minutes.

-Add the tins of tomatoes, 2 tablespoons of tomato puree and a good slug of wine (a large glass or about a quarter of the bottle).

-Finely chop the two anchovies and drop them in. You won’t taste them as anchovies (so put them in even if you know someone who hates them; just keep quiet about it) – they’ll dissolve and leave behind a good depth of flavour for everything else.

-Wait for this to reduce to about half and then add the stock, cream, and check seasoning.

A note about stock.I had a friend coming who was not a particular fan of shellfish (I know, how great am I, cooking his favourite thing for him?) so I was conscious of not making the whole event too fishy. I therefore used chicken stock. I think it lent a nice meaty background to the finished soup, and it definitely made the bits of seafood themselves quite distinct, but you should traditionally (and for a more homogenous whole) use fish stock.

-Whichever stock you use, make sure everything reduces by about half again. Taste it now. If you’re doing it right it should taste pretty much exactly the same as Heinz Tomato Soup. I know, you’ve spent half an hour on this and you could have opened a can. To jazz it up, now put in the spice. I used a good few shakes of cayenne, until there was a definite bite, but obviously do it to your taste.

(at this point, you can leave the base to go cold overnight or during the day, and just reheat to finish off when your guests arrive. I had to do this because all of my friends were late).

-Cut the coley into small chunks and drop into the soup. They should only take a couple of minutes to cook. I was worried about the lack of flavour in coley (sorry, I know you’re not allowed to say that but it is basically the cod’s poor relation. Albeit his relation who isn’t about to become extinct) so I actually wrapped the fillets in some foil with a bit of butter and roasted them in the oven for 10 minutes. This is anal and you don’t need to do it.

-Throw the seafood in – it only needs warming through so keep an eye on it to watch out for overcooking (especially from the squid rings, which are cagey little brutes and prone to spontaneous rubberization).

-Add a squeeze of lemon and all the parsley, give it a final stir and serve with lots of wine.

(Apologies for the pun in the title)